If your switches stop working they may be worn out or the screws may have come loose. If you’ve wired a new switch correctly and the circuit still doesn’t work, the switch may be defective. Check that all connections are tight. Check the switch, remove it from the circuit and test for failure with a continuity tester or multimeter set on the Ohms setting.
This represents a change in the NEC code that requires a neutral wire in most new switch boxes. If you are running a new circuit check the electrical code to understand this and any other updates to the required procedure.
Here a receptacle is added to the circuit before the first switch. It is not controlled with the switches but is instead always hot. The source hot, neutral and ground are spliced to a 2-wire cable that runs to the new outlet. The 3 way switches and light are then wired in the usual way with the common on SW2 spliced to the source hot and the light hot wired to the common on SW1.
In this diagram the source is at SW1 and the hot is connected to the common terminal there. Three-wire cable runs between the switches and 2-wire cable runs from the dimmer to the light fixture. The travelers from SW1 run to T1 on the 4 way switch and from T2 to the traveler wires on the dimmer. The dimmer common wire is spliced to the hot terminal on the light.
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