If your switches stop working they may be worn out or the screws may have come loose. If you’ve wired a new switch correctly and the circuit still doesn’t work, the switch may be defective. Check that all connections are tight. Check the switch, remove it from the circuit and test for failure with a continuity tester or multimeter set on the Ohms setting.
This page contains wiring diagrams for household light switches and includes a switch loop, single-pole switches, light dimmer, and a few choices for wiring a combo switch/outlet device. Also included are wiring arrangements for multiple light fixtures controlled by one switch, and a split receptacle controlled by two switches.
Here the source is at SW1 and the light fixture comes immediately after. The source neutral is spliced through to the light fixture. At the light the travelers are splice together and run to the 4-way switch. At the 4-way, the hot wire from the common terminal on SW2 is splice through to the hot on the light fixture.
This represents a change in the NEC code that requires a neutral wire in most new switch boxes. If you are running a new circuit check the electrical code to understand this and any other updates to the required procedure.
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