Here the source is in the middle of the circuit. The dimmer switch is in this box where the hot is connect to the common wire. The common on SW1 is run to the light fixture hot terminal using the white cable wire to the dimmer box where it is spliced with the black cable wire going to the light. The white wire is wrapped with black tape to mark it as hot. The traveler wires are connected in the same way as the above diagrams. The neutral runs directly from the dimmer box to the light fixture.
If your switches stop working they may be worn out or the screws may have come loose. If you’ve wired a new switch correctly and the circuit still doesn’t work, the switch may be defective. Check that all connections are tight. Check the switch, remove it from the circuit and test for failure with a continuity tester or multimeter set on the Ohms setting.
If the switch is good and things still don’t work, check the wiring to be sure the hot source is connected to a common terminal and the light fixture hot is connected to a common terminal. Likewise, be sure the traveler terminals are connected between switches only and not to any hot wires or the load.
The neutral wire provides a return path for the circuit and the ground wire provides extra protection from electrocution not found on older 30 amp, 240 volt appliance hookups.
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