Check to be sure the traveler wires only connect between the traveler terminals on the switches. Also be sure the neutral from the source is connected to the neutral terminal at the light. A neutral wire will not be used with these switches, although some smart switches may make use of a neutral wire to operate the device.
This diagram illustrates the wiring for a split receptacle with the top half controlled by SW1 and the bottom half always hot. The receptacle is split by breaking the connecting tab between the two, brass colored terminals. The tab between the neutral, silver terminals should remain intact.
At the beginning of the circuit the hot source is connected to the common terminal on SW1. The neutral is spliced to the white cable wire and then spliced to the neutral terminal at L1, along with the white 2-cable wire running to L2 where it connects to the neutral terminal.
If your switches stop working they may be worn out or the screws may have come loose. If you’ve wired a new switch correctly and the circuit still doesn’t work, the switch may be defective. Check that all connections are tight. Check the switch, remove it from the circuit and test for failure with a continuity tester or multimeter set on the Ohms setting.
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