Check to be sure the traveler wires only connect between the traveler terminals on the switches. Also be sure the neutral from the source is connected to the neutral terminal at the light. A neutral wire will not be used with these switches, although some smart switches may make use of a neutral wire to operate the device.
A rheostat, or dimmer, makes it possible to vary the current flowing to a light fixture thereby varying the intensity of the light. The dimmer switch will have stranded wires that must be sliced to the solid cable wiring with a pigtail. A device like this should only be used with an incandescent light fixture and not with a ceiling fan or other motor. See wiring a speed controller for wiring a rheostat to control fan speed.
The top terminal is connected to the black cable wire, and the source neutral is spliced to the white wire which continues on to one of the neutral terminals on the receptacle, it doesn’t matter which, only one connection is needed with the neutral wire.
Back at the lights the source neutral is connected to the neutral terminal on L1 and spliced with the white wire running between the fixtures. At each light it’s connected to the neutral terminal. At SW1 the red and white wires from the 3-wire cable running between switches function as the travelers with the white marked for hot using black tape or paint.
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